In 1904, the third generation Cartier developed a modern wristwatch for the pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont – a friend who needed a timepiece that he could read while flying a plane. MC stands for "Manufacture Cartier", while 1904 is an ode to Louis Cartier’s pioneering spirit. The 1904-CH MC was the first in-house automatic movement made by Cartier. To be able to cater to a wider audience, Cartier introduced the Calibre de Cartier line, a better-priced collection featuring the 1904-CH MC movement. Given that the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon was a Geneva Seal watch, it also carried a prohibitive price tag, pushing it well into the haute horology category. That changed with the introduction of the Ballon Bleu Flying Tourbillon, the maison’s first watch to earn the Geneva Seal, and the first to feature the 9452 MC caliber - their declaration of readiness to create their own movements. Historically, Cartier was not known for creating movements in-house. The beginnings of the Calibre de Cartier can be traced back to the creation of the first Cartier in-house movements in 2008. Explore our selection of Calibre de Cartier watches at. While it was discontinued in 2018, the Calibre de Cartier, as well as its Chronograph, Diver, and Tourbillon sub-collections, continue to be sought after in the pre-owned market. This paved the way for Cartier to not just establish its identity as a manufacturer of its own movements, but also as a key player in the sports watch genre. Introduced in 2010, the Calibre de Cartier marked two notable firsts for the French maison: it is the first watch equipped with an automatic mechanical movement crafted entirely in-house at the Cartier workshop in Switzerland and it is also the first caliber in the company’s history to be designed specifically for the men’s sports watch market. Aside from its bold take on signature Cartier elements, the special feature among Calibre de Cartier watches lies within their interior: without exception, they are equipped with Cartier movements produced completely in-house. These watches will be priced at $8,200 for the steel and rubber version and will go all the way to $28,100 for 18kt pink gold on pink gold bracelet option.The Calibre de Cartier is a sporty and robust reinterpretation of the classic round watch. ![]() The hands are made from black steel and are sword shaped for a truly sophisticated look. The dial also carries a small seconds subdial at the 6 o’ clock position. The elements on the dial are coated with Super-LumiNova for exceptional legibility regardless of the light conditions. The dial comes in black and features large Arabic numerals and indexes around a racetrack hour ring. The caliber number 1904 is special to Cartier as this was when the brand launched their very first wristwatch for their friend and aviation pioneer – Alberto Santos Dumont. The power reserve remains the same at 46 hours, while the balance wheel alternates at 28,800 VpH, which is optimal for precision timing. Powering this watch will be the in house Cartier Calibre 1904MC which is automatic. The main crown is fitted with the classic synthetic blue spinal, or blue sapphire found in nearly every Cartier model. The markings on the bezel are white for enhanced readability while underwater. The bezel is made from stainless steel but is made black due to the DLC (Diamond Like Coating). This function is quite useful, as it allows the watch to be used as an auxiliary timer when diving. The bezel is unidirectional which allows the wearer to measure elapsed time. ![]() The case height is 11mm which is quite thin for a diver’s watch. The diameter of the case will remain at its current size of 42mm. The case of this watch will be made from stainless steel, or 18kt pink gold, and there may possibly be a bimetal version. ![]() As a divers watch, Cartier makes this model with the ability to withstand up to 300 meters (1000 feet) of water pressure. Cartier has released a sneak peak of this model to whet our appetites. This model hasn’t been released yet and will be showcased at the premier watch event of the year – the SIHH (Salon Internationale Haute Horlogerie), which kicks off early in 2014. Brand new from Cartier is another addition to their ultra-successful Calibre de Cartier Collection – the Cartier Calibre Diver.
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